PORTO ALEGRE BRAZIL NOVEMBER 2005 by Tom Brown

We selected the south of Brazil for our last trip of the year.  We had choices of the Holiday Inn and Sheraton, choosing the latter.  We planned 4 nights there with overnights on the plane coming and going.

The trip started well enough with an on time flight to Dulles from Laguardia.  We even boarded the Brazil flight on time at 10pm and then went nowhere.  We finally learned that a radio malfunction could not be quickly repaired, and that we would change planes to minimize the delay.  So, still without dinner, we boarded our new plane at 12:30 am and promptly left the gate, only to return when there was an engine control circuit problem on the runway.  A fix was attempted that didn't work and at 2am we were told that we would go to hotels and the plane would leave at 11am; that we would re-check in at 9:00 and we would not claim our bags, and we should call reservations from the hotel if we had connections in Brazil.

We got to the Hilton by 3am, changed our connection with reservations and got to sleep by 3:30.  Got back to the airport on time and were told that the flight would go at 12:30.  So we had egg Mac Muffins at MacDonalds.  First ever, not bad.

With some apprehension we boarded the plane.  The same crew was with us also with almost no sleep, but helpful.  But the curve ball was that a lot of passengers baled out, but their bags were on the plane which is bad, and it took 90 minutes to remove the bags.  Finally we took off and had a good flight.  However, it being a 9  hour flight and a 3 hour time change, we arrived at 1:30 am, had to go to another hotel, got to sleep at 3:30am and were up at 6:30 am to catch our connecting flight.  Nice Marriott breakfast.

The flight to Porto Alegre was late but OK.  To describe Porto Alegre, it is a city of 1.5 million, on a major river, 100 miles from the ocean.  Weather is perfect, sunny high 80s..  It is generally pretty with lots of parks and trees, even flowering trees, and some beautiful public buildings.  The downtown area is slightly in disrepair with considerable graffiti.  The graffiti ranges from true art to social protest.

The city seems to support itself as a manufacturing center, service center for surrounding mining, farming, charcoal and timber.  The hotel staff told us that it is becoming a world class meeting site and Brazilian headquarters site for international companies.  The friend we met was a US executive of John Deere based in Porto Alegre.

The city has a vibrant middle class.  There are a few homeless poor and a lot of working poor doing scavenging or passing out advertising or even making advertising.  We encountered a team of young people that unfurled a 35 foot wide banner in front of traffic stopped for a red light, and then removing it when the light changes to green, all day!

Our hotel seemed to be a  destination for regional or national Brazilian company meetings.  There were lots of people dressed in sports outfits with numbers on their back, seemingly doing team building exercises.

We arrived before noon and it was truly a 10 minute cab ride to the hotel, as advertised.  Nice upscale neighborhood, nice room up high with a view.  I went for a walk, met a man eating lunch outside that we had sat next to on the plane, then sleep, Alice right to sleep.  Nice dinner at the hotel and to bed.  Here the custom is to eat late, say 9pm.

After a nice breakfast we signed up for a city tour which is in a double decker bus.  It is a pretty city.

After lunch we went to a flea market near one of the parks.  Lots of crafts and old things.  And everybody was walking around drinking yerba mate, the South American herbal beverage that has a stimulant related to caffeine.

Sunday evening we had dinner at a nearby restaurant that overflowed out onto the street.  Excellent lamb and Brazilian wine.

On Monday morning we went for a walk and discovered a park surrounding a water department building that had whimsical sculptures with water mains, fire hydrants and giant valves going no place.

We also visited a supermarket,where we stocked up on yerba mate and tropical drinks.  Lots of interesting food items that we do not see and many that we do see.  Lots of global brands.  Imported and national produce.  Really huge Brazilian wine section.

For lunch we visited a food court of a shopping center.  A huge variety of food from about 10 restaurants and a common seating area.  So you'd order and pay, they'd give you a big number to place on your table, then the food was very quickly delivered.  We had Brazilian plates of rice, beans and chicken that were excellent.

Then for the afternoon we went on a boat ride through the islands of the river.  To get on the boat we had to brave a children's book fair complete with clowns and lots of children visiting from their schools.

The islands are mostly inhabited, thanks to off ramps from a major bridge across the river.  There are some beautiful and luxurious estates on the riverbanks, and other places some very humble shacks.  Nice view of the city as well.  Lots of kids from the book fair on the boat, mostly well behaved.

Nice dinner in the hotel.

On Tuesday, our departure day, I started by jogging.  Then I convinced Alice to come back to the park and people watch.  People jogging and people walking.  Beautiful and not so beautiful people, old and young.  Lots of pets including dogs in costumes and with hair ribbons.  A couple doing ceremonial fighting with swords.  Vendors selling everything from drinks to coconuts.  Lots of yerba mate gourds being sipped.

Then we had lunch at a restaurant on the street, then off to the airport.

The Varig flight was fine with a snack.  Then a somewhat long wait for our 11:30pm departure to Dulles, and dinner.  Fortunately no problems with the flight.  The connecting flight to Laguardia, was delayed due to high winds, but no problem.  Home before 1pm.

So it was a very interesting and, once we got there, relaxing trip!